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RAPTOR hot-end

Raptor hotend has a standard groove mount which can be found on J-head / E3D v6 heads, etc.

The length of the hotend is exactly the same as E3Dv6.

In the "download" section on the Raptor page, there is a 3D model by which you can verify compatibility.

We offer two types of sensors "PT1000" and "NTC 100k Semitec 104gt2"

The NTC 100k Semitec sensor is sufficient for standard prints at temperatures up to 270 ° C. It is very common, so most printers will not require any firmware changes.

For printing at high temperatures, we recommend the PT1000 sensor, which can withstand up to 550 ° C. It is necessary to modify your firmware and select the correct temperature table. Hardware modifications should not be necessary.

If there is a standard 4k7 Pullup resistor on the board then: #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1047

In case you replaced the resistor with 1k: #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1010

When using a standard 4k7 pullup resistor:



# define USER_THERMISTORTABLE0 {{723,0}, {812,320}, {896,640}, {975,960}, {1049,1280}, {1118,1600}, {1184,1920}, {1246,2240}, {1305 , 2560}, {1361,2880}, {1414,3200}, {1464,3520}}

In case of 1k pullup resistor: Configuration.h:


# define USER_THERMISTORTABLE0 {{2055,0}, {2132,160}, {2202,320}, {2327,640}, {2383,800}, {2436,960}, {2485,1120}, {2531 , 1280}, {2574,1440}, {2614,1600}, {2653,1760}, {2689,1920}, {2723,2080}, {2755,2240}, {2786,2400}, {2815,2560 }, {2842,2720}, {2869,2880}, {2894,3040}, {2918,3200}, {2940,3360}, {2962,3520}, {2983,3680}}

For standard 4k7 Pullup resistor:

M305 P1 X501 R4700; heater 1 uses a PT1000 connected to thermistor channel 1 which has a 4.7K series resistor

If you have a 1k Pullup resistor:

M305 P1 X501 R1000 ; heater 1 uses a PT1000 connected to thermistor channel 1 which has a 1K series resistor


step_pin: P2.13

dir_pin: !P0.11

enable_pin: !P2.12

step_distance: .00133

nozzle_diameter: 0.400

filament_diameter: 1.750

heater_pin: P2.7

sensor_type: PT1000

pullup_resistor : 4700

sensor_pin: P0.24

#control: pid

#pid_Kp: 52.43

#pid_Ki: 10.48

#pid_Kd: 65.6

min_temp: 0

max_temp: 350

In most cases, it is a combination of several factors.

  • First and foremost, cooling the hotend is very important. If this is not enough, the fiber will soften before entering the melting zone and may jam.
  • It is always absolutely necessary to direct the fan air into the radiator fins (ie to blow the air in)
  • We do not recommend the use of Noctua low pressure fans, etc.
  • For some materials, such as PLA, jamming is more common and is sometimes addressed by better hotend cooling, reduced drag, or a combination thereof.
  • In some less common cases, the nozzle may be clogged with a foreign body (dust, chip, etc.). In this case, we recommend removing the nozzle and either cleaning it with a special wire of the required diameter heated, or using the so-called cold pull.

Cold pull:

  1. Set the temperature on the printer, such as 210-220 ° C for PLA.
  2. Unscrew the extruder pressure wheel.
  3. Then lower the temperature to approximately 90 ° C and, once you reach this temperature, pull the fiber out by hand.

In the case of a clogged nozzle, either clean the heated nozzle with a special needle of the required diameter. If we don't have it, we can try the so-called cold pull :

  1. Set the temperature on the printer, for example 210-220 ° C for PLA. Insert the filament into the hotend.
  2. Unscrew the extruder pressure wheel.
  3. Then reduce the temperature to approximately 90 ° C and pull the filament out by hand when this temperature is reached.

Thermal runaway can be caused by several things.

First of all, we recommend checking the cabling. It is ideal to avoid a large number of connectors, they are the most common source of problems.

Another source of problems can be excessive cooling of the bottom of the hotend. Despite the fact that the Raptor has high performance, improperly designed nozzle blowing and high static fan pressure can cool it so much that the printer evaluates it as an error and interrupts printing. Therefore, we recommend using a silicone sleeve and appropriately designing the cooling of the printout.

At the same time, we recommend checking during installation that the temperature sensor has not been pulled out too much. It's good to have him tucked in as much as possible.

It is also very important to secure all cable connections and connectors against movement. If a wire with a connector can move during printing, it will come loose over time and cause problems.

Thanks to the compact design, good insulation and correct temperature measurement, the output from the Raptor is much more accurate.

In practice, this means that it shows a more accurate indication of the nozzle temperature than conventional cube-shaped melters.

It usually turns out that it is possible to print with temperatures lower by 10-20 ° C.

Since the Raptor is equipped with a unique nozzle with integrated heatbreak, it is not necessary to change the heated nozzle.

Before replacing the nozzle, it is necessary to pull out the filament in the heated state, or to cut it above the print head in the cold state.

When replacing the nozzle, we recommend that you slightly loosen the lower three Allen key screws.

Then the nozzle can usually be replaced very easily (usually by hand) with a new one.

Then retighten the screws.

THUNDER Direct-Drive Extruder

The Thunder direct drive extruder is still in the prototype phase and debugging. You can follow our facebook sites where you will be informed about the news. If you have any questions, you can write to us at one of the emails listed in the contacts.